Sukiyaki is one of the most luxurious ways to enjoy the marbling of wagyu. Gathering around the pot is a fixture of the Japanese winter, and a way of marking time with family and friends.
Sukiyaki comes in Kanto and Kansai styles. Kanto style: a pre-mixed sauce called warishita, in which meat and vegetables simmer together. Kansai style: the meat is seared first, seasoned directly with sugar and tamari soy sauce, then finished with a small amount of kombu dashi. The Kansai method lets you taste the wagyu itself, unmediated.
The definitive name in Matsusaka beef sukiyaki is Wadakin (和田金), in Matsusaka, Mie. Founded in 1878 and approaching 150 years of history, it is the originator of Matsusaka beef. Calves from Tajima are raised on the restaurant’s own farm, then cooked slowly in the classic Kansai manner: a Nambu cast-iron pot, fine white sugar, tamari soy sauce and kombu dashi.
Gyugin Honten (牛銀本店), in Matsusaka, Mie was founded in 1902 and has been serving Matsusaka beef sukiyaki for more than 120 years. Through constant dialogue with its farmers, it continues to protect the old way of doing things.
For proper Kansai-style sukiyaki at home: (1) heat an iron pot; (2) sear the meat in beef tallow; (3) season with fine white sugar and tamari soy sauce; (4) add a little kombu dashi; (5) prepare the vegetables separately. The method is simple, but it delivers the umami of wagyu head-on.
For sukiyaki, the classic choice is well-marbled rib loin or sirloin. Reckon on 150-200g per person. The standard brands are Matsusaka, Kobe, Omi and Yonezawa beef.
Buying online, a branded-beef sukiyaki set sits in the 10,000-30,000 yen range. Using the furusato nozei hometown tax scheme makes it better value still.