"Niku Ryori Fukunaga" opened in 2015 in Moriyama, Shiga Prefecture, and stands as the ultimate destination for experiencing the true essence of Omi beef. Chef-owner Yoshinori Fukunaga's family runs "Maruki Fukunaga Kisaburo Shoten" — a prestigious Omi beef producer often described as "a solitary legend" among Japan's elite wagyu ranchers. As a restaurant with direct ties to the producer, Niku Ryori Fukunaga is one of only two restaurants in all of Japan that regularly stock beef from the Maruki ranch — an extraordinarily rare distinction in the industry. Chef Fukunaga combines 10 years of training in French cuisine with the heritage of his family's Omi beef to create something truly singular in Shiga.
Chef Yoshinori Fukunaga was born into the family of "Maruki Fukunaga Kisaburo Shoten," a legendary Omi beef ranching house, and spent 10 years training as a French chef in Kyoto before opening Niku Ryori Fukunaga in 2015. The bloodline of a premier producer combined with the refined techniques of French cuisine — this exceptional pairing is what gives the restaurant its one-of-a-kind positioning in Japan's culinary landscape.
Chef Fukunaga's conviction is clear: "Lean-meat umami comes first, not marbling." Running counter to the prevailing marbling competition, he uses female cattle raised the traditional way, drinking natural spring water from the Suzuka mountain range — a resolute stance that defies trends. With every chew, an explosive intensity of lean-meat umami unfolds, followed by a pristine, crystalline finish — a world of premium wagyu that only Maruki ranch Omi beef can deliver.
The signature "Niku Sansan" course (from 22,000 yen) is a luxurious yet essential experience featuring over 300 grams of Omi beef. French technique shines throughout the composition, and among the highlights is the hamburger steak — a dish that devoted regulars describe as producing "a bloom of flavor in the mouth."
The counter is crafted from thick, stately Akita cedar, while two private rooms feature hori-gotatsu (sunken floor seating), blending a sense of calm with the approachable warmth characteristic of Shiga. Premium ingredients and assured technique in an atmosphere free of pretension — this is the essence of Fukunaga's comfort.
Niku Ryori Fukunaga possesses a sourcing advantage unmatched in the industry: chef-owner Yoshinori Fukunaga's family operates "Maruki Fukunaga Kisaburo Shoten" — a producer described as "a solitary legend" among Omi beef ranchers — and his restaurant is one of only two in all of Japan that regularly stock Maruki ranch beef. His philosophy of "lean-meat umami over marbling," realized through female cattle raised traditionally on Suzuka mountain spring water, fuses with a decade of French culinary training to achieve explosive lean-meat flavor density and a pristine, clean finish. The Akita cedar counter and hori-gotatsu private rooms create a warm, distinctly Shiga atmosphere, and the unpretentious hospitality offers guests a relaxed and memorable dining experience. The chef's conviction of "defying the marbling trend" and signature creations like the hamburger steak — which regulars say produces "a bloom of flavor in the mouth" — introduce the new value proposition of "Omi beef that competes on lean-meat umami." The Niku Sansan course at 22,000 yen, offering over 300 grams of Omi beef, represents exceptional value for this caliber of experience.